soufkackicustom wrote:supplies:
box of #6 1 1/4in dry wall screws
3- 1inX4inX8ft boards (untreated)
1 4ftX8ftsheet of 3/4in MDF
scissors,cardboard,tape,jigsaw,sander
cost: Bout $30,,,,,time: bout 4 hours.
here we start.
cut the side panels to clear rstb.
basic frame.1x4x8 the up pieces are 59in long,the cross pieces are 32in long. butt jointed with #6 1 1/4in counter sunk drywall screws. (back pieces not piced, make a retangle)
down pieces to make level, 4 1/4 in
I put in guide marks where around the wheel well starts to go back out . One big piece wolnt just drop in. your gonna make a 2in lip for the sides to screw to. thats why the use of 4in wide boards.
take the frame out, flip it upside down on a 3/4in MDF sheet, trace it. now where the guide marks are, measure 2 inches in. (the shaded black area will be cut out. These are from the earlier guide marks. This leaves you 2in on the frame to mount the main board, and 2inches to mount the side pieces
after cutting, this is what you got. Your gonna want to cut the end towards the front of the car on the long side, you can trim it flush later
sit the frame back in the car, along with the peice you just cut, check for square, then counter sink, and screw down, (notice top isnt perfect, that will be trimed off now to match front of frame.)
template for the front piece.this is the face of the floor. if you look back from the drivers seat, it would be the vertical panel you see. worry about the sides and the bottom, the top can be wild, it will be trimed to the top of the floor. make this in two sections is easiest. one for the left, one for the right.
These are for the areas left by the rear speakers, and behind the wheel wells. This is why I used the marks to leave 2in mounting area on the frame
use cardboard to make template. and tape
trace them on the wood, dont destroy them, more than likely, they are close to the other side.
The four pieces are cut to fit, you can see where they are screwed to the 2iches I left of the frame earlier. They are only like 5 inches wide, Int the front they attach to the frame, and the face plate. so they are sturdy, in the rear, its the frame, and the lip on the bottom of the factory plastics that keep them up
after you do all four, counter sink and attach
as you can see, I cut the edge main floor closest to the seats in the car, then I put in the vertical face plate, and trimmed it flush with the floor in the car.
done (mine will receive fiberglassing)
you have some options now, shop vac, or drive windows up,a/c off to the car wash, and vacuum out your nasty ass car. DONT TRY TO DRIVE WITH THE WINDOWS DOWN. saw dust will fly every where.
If you noticed the frame in the car, you can now run all you wires under the floor for a system install, hide a battery in the spare tire well, or what ever.
original thread can be found at http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701157711
